Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe

Angelus unites the chronograph's key functional scales—telemeter, pulsometer, and tachymeter—in a single design. True to its heritage as a maker of functional timepieces, Angelus brings together the expertise developed through its previous instruments in the Instrument de Mesures. Produced in two limited editions of 25 pieces, this watch is a genuine instrument of measurement, designed to calculate elapsed time, the speed of sound, distance travelled and heart rate. Using a single chronograph hand, it integrates three functions, each with its own dedicated scale. Housed in a 39 mm steel case, its three-dimensional dial is both highly legible and meticulously graduated, giving the Instrument de Mesures the character of an authentic tool watch with a distinctive vintage charm and singular identity.

One Instrument, Multiple Measurements
Integrating these three scales alongside the essential minute track required a particularly sophisticated design approach. The amount of information to be displayed, combined with the need for legibility and clarity, led Angelus to adopt a distinct colour code for each function. This arrangement is reinforced by a three-dimensional dial construction, featuring a domed centre and outer edge connected by a sloping intermediate section. The telemetric scale is situated on the highest level at the periphery of the dial. The pulsometer extends across the angled intermediate section, and the tachymeter, in the form of a spiral, is located closest to the hands.

The In-House A5000 Chronograph Calibre
The Instrument de Mesures is powered by Angelus's in-house A5000 chronograph calibre. Its classical architecture showcases numerous intricately shaped components, providing an ideal canvas for high-end finishing. Faithful to the great traditions of chronograph watchmaking, the A5000 incorporates a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, both defining features of traditional chronographs.
 

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Independent manufacture Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Balancier QM ($GF09cm$), marking a historic milestone for the workshop by officially naming its highest, most uncompromising hand-finishing standard: Qualité Musée (Museum Quality). While this meticulous level of execution has been quietly embedded into every single timepiece crafted by the Atelier since its founding in 2004, the Balancier QM is the first model to formally carry the designation. Driven forward by a dedicated research wing within the brand’s proprietary EWT (Experimental Watch Technology) Laboratory, this standard mandates that every individual component, whether fully visible through the sapphire crystals or buried deep within the gear train, must hold up as a standalone work of art.

The mechanical architecture of the Balancier QM is a tour de force of in-house micro-engineering and innovation. Most notably, the timepiece features a specialized hairspring manufactured entirely in-house from the raw alloy stage up—a rarity in modern watchmaking accomplished via restored antique machinery. This is paired with an impressive $12.60\text{ mm}$ variable-inertia balance wheel and a cutting-edge bi-level escapement system that utilizes unique convex pallet-jewels, allowing light to softly diffuse through the rubies rather than abruptly reflecting off flat surfaces. Illustrating the immense labor required for the Qualité Musée standard, the steel balance wheel bridge alone requires seven distinct hand-finishing techniques, ranging from flawless mirror barrel polishing to extra-large $0.40\text{ mm}$ hand-polished bevels.

Visually, the timepiece presents an intricately layered, three-dimensional landscape neatly organized within a highly compact 39.60mm white gold case. The movement architecture encourages deep visual exploration; the escapement is nestled into the lowermost depths of the chassis, while the eye naturally ascends past a high-set small seconds sub-dial, flame-blued polished steel hands, and a raised chapter ring. Beneath this upper track, a power-reserve indicator slips mysteriously across a dedicated sector to track the watch's 72-hour chronometric power delivery, sustained by two fast-rotating, series-coupled mainspring barrels. True to Greubel Forsey’s signature underplayed luxury, the words "Qualité Musée" are entirely absent from the dial, hidden instead on a secret internal plate deep inside the movement.

Limited to just 33 exclusive timepieces worldwide, the Balancier QM represents a deliberate strategic pivot for Greubel Forsey toward smaller, more wearable case dimensions without sacrificing an ounce of technical complexity. The manufacture openly acknowledges that achieving this level of structural perfection across all 298 movement parts demands an extraordinary expenditure of time, which will intentionally reduce the company's overall production volume heading into 2027. Looking ahead, the Qualité Musée standard will serve as the foundation for a series of compact releases, including a highly anticipated movement under development at the EWT lab featuring a gear train crafted entirely from solid gold.
 

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gérald genta continues its legacy of audacious elegance with the launch of two new references in the Gentissima Oursin collection: Blue Meteorite and Green Meteorite. These timepieces mark a bold evolution of the iconic design first imagined by Mr. Gérald Genta in 1994, inspired by the delicate yet resilient form of the sea urchin.

A Design Born from Nature and the Cosmos
The Gentissima Oursin 41 features a 41mm sandblasted Grade 5 titanium case, meticulously set with 234 white gold beads, echoing the organic geometry of the sea urchin. At its heart lies a dial carved from a fragment of meteorite—a material born from the stars—making each watch a unique, one-of-one creation. The natural crystalline structure of meteorite ensures that no two dials are alike, offering collectors a truly rare expression of artistry.

Sporty-Chic Meets Haute Horlogerie
Combining rubber straps and titanium architecture with luxurious gold accents, the Gentissima Oursin 41 is designed for everyday wearability without compromising sophistication. A curved sapphire crystal, faceted with a subtle octagonal profile, protects the dial and enhances its dynamic character. Gold hands filled with Super-LumiNova featuring a pink hue—a tribute to Mr. Genta’s favorite color—ensure legibility and elegance.

Mechanical Excellence
Inside beats the Zenith Elite GG-005 automatic movement, boasting a 50-hour power reserve, 4 Hz frequency, and an 18K yellow gold oscillating mass, visible through a sapphire caseback. With 50m water resistance and a comfortable rubber strap, this timepiece is as practical as it is artistic.

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The Maison gérald genta expands the Geneva collection with the Geneva Time Only, a new 38 mm creation in warm rose gold 4N and cool white gold, translating the line’s sculptural language and “l’esprit de Genève” into an essential, everyday expression.

“I wanted to capture the intuitive, instinctive genius and artistry of Mr. Genta,” says Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, who leads the Geneva collection’s creative direction.

The updated cushion case—neither round nor square—features softened contours, a refined gadroon and a new single, broader lug on each side, striking a rare balance of daring and discretion. Light plays across polished and satin surfaces, while the collection’s signature two‑segment minute track forms a subtle optical illusion as the outer track follows the cushion silhouette and the inner ring remains perfectly circular. The grained brass dial carries a gentle fumé gradient—lighter at the center, darker at the edge—for tonal depth.

At just 8.15 mm thick, the 38 mm case slips neatly under a cuff; both models are fitted with rounded, mirror‑polished solid‑gold hands and applied indexes and tone‑on‑tone calfskin straps. Under the dial, the GG‑005P automatic calibre—Zenith Elite–based with redesigned bridges and a reworked oscillating mass—beats at 4 Hz with a 50‑hour power reserve (158 components, 27 jewels), visible through the sapphire caseback. Water‑resistance is 30 m.

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