DANIEL ROTH Tourbillon Platinum

The year 2026 marks a historic milestone for the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte, celebrating the 200th birthday of its visionary founder and namesake, born on March 27, 1826. A genius watchmaker, scientist, author, and the initiator of the German Watchmaking School, Grossmann profoundly shaped the craft of horology and the fate of his hometown. Rather than merely duplicating historical concepts, the modern manufactory honors his legacy by blending his cutting-edge philosophy with modern engineering. This dedication to technological perfection and exceptional aesthetics cements its place among the world's elite elite watchmakers.

To commemorate this bicentennial occasion, the brand has unveiled its fourth anniversary special edition: the BACKPAGE Tremblage. Debuting on May 19, 2026, this launch presents an exclusive mechanical showcase for collectors—featuring a massive dial opening that reveals the magnificent inner workings of the movement from the front. Crafted with a luxurious three-part platinum case, the watch conceals a subtle celebratory nod on its reverse side: a balance cock delicately engraved with "1826", the birth year of Moritz Grossmann.

At the heart of this timepiece is the hand-wound manufactory calibre 107.0, a technical tour de force that essentially stands as a mirror image of the signature calibre 100.1. To allow components like the Grossmann balance, hand-engraved balance cock, and the triple-band snailing on the ratchet wheel to be admired on the dial side instead of being hidden on the back, the entire movement architecture had to be re-engineered. An additional wheel integrated between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel reverses the rotation of the drive train, allowing the mirrored escapement and oscillation system to run perfectly in the correct direction.

The defining aesthetic highlight of this model is its German silver dial face, treated with the historic hand-worked tremblage engraving technique. By meticulously guiding a cutter back and forth in tiny trembling movements, master artisans create a vibrant, finely granulated, and uniform matt texture. The remaining dial elements define the watch's character, offered in either an expressive violet or a captivating "blue meteor" galvanized shade, framing the hour display from 11 to 5 o'clock. Strictly limited to 12 pieces per color variant worldwide, the models are completed with matching hand-annealed steel hands and hand-stitched alligator or kudu leather straps.

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Arnold & Son continues its mastery of ornamental stones with the launch of the Ultrathin Tourbillon Onyx. Available in 18-carat 5N red gold or 950 platinum, this exquisite timepiece is limited to just eight pieces per version. The design features a broad dial crafted from polished natural onyx, offering an intense black backdrop that beautifully contrasts with a unique matt-finished sub-dial.

At the heart of this creation is the A&S8300 manufacture calibre, which stands as one of the slimmest flying tourbillon movements in the industry at only 2.97 mm thick. Technical refinements to the regulating organ and tourbillon cage have boosted the power reserve to an impressive 100 hours. The flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock remains a visual highlight, featuring a hand-engraved yellow gold bridge and a cage design inspired by John Arnold’s historic maritime chronometers. The watch is completed with a hand-stitched black alligator strap and a matching precious metal clasp.

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A faithful tribute to the original model, the Tinkler 1958 repeater celebrates Angelus’s rich heritage of striking watches. Driven by a self-winding quarter-repeater movement, this double limited edition, available in gold or steel, continues the tradition of measuring instruments that built the manufacture’s reputation. From its establishment in 1891, the name Angelus has been synonymous with the chiming of a bell, a legacy reinforced by one of the Maison's first patents for a silent strike governor in 1896. Since then, repeater mechanisms have remained at the heart of Angelus collections, even being adapted into Braille-repeating watches for blinded soldiers during the First World War.

Inspired by this glorious history, Angelus is reissuing one of its rarest and most refined models: the Tinkler, based on the original 1958 edition. In 1958, Angelus filed a patent for a striking wristwatch, which was immediately followed by the original Tinkler—a pioneer of water-resistant, self-winding quarter-repeater watches. The new 38-mm case charms with a decidedly 1950s aesthetic that is clean, understated, and elegant. At 9 o’clock, the crown is balanced by a pusher that activates the quarter repeater, serving as a functional and historical hallmark of this legendary model.

The Tinkler 1958 edition is driven by the new Angelus A600 calibre, a mechanical self-winding movement that beats at 4Hz and offers a 70-hour power reserve. On request, the pusher at 9 o’clock triggers a sequence where each hour is marked by a clear strike on the first gong, followed by a double strike on two gongs to signal each quarter hour. The movement's finishing demonstrates the watchmaker's extreme attention to detail, featuring a snail-finished main plate, palladium-plated bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, and a tungsten sunburst oscillating weight.

This new release is part of the La Fabrique line, where Angelus continues its legacy as a maker of specialty watches designed for specific activities or professional uses. The Tinkler 1958 is limited to 15 pieces in 18-carat yellow gold and 25 pieces in stainless steel, each paired with an alligator flank leather strap—ink blue for the gold version and saddle brown for the steel. Combining a modernist-style numeral 12 with exclamation-shaped hour markers at the quarter positions, the watch serves as a modern embodiment of a daring yet functional tradition.

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