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高珀富斯之“立體美感”:手腕上的城市

05 Jul 2022

 

 

GREUBEL FORSEY "ARCHITECTURE":
A CITY ON THE WRIST

Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture 24秒陀飞轮腕表不同于高珀富斯以往打造的任何时计。 其表壳完全采用非常规造型,结构经特意设计,机械组件宛若雕塑,环环相扣,彼此作用,美轮美奂,令人叹为观止! 全新高珀富斯机芯搭配全新凸圆锥体形表壳,完全颠覆了传统机芯的结构和美学,将立体美感呈现于腕间。

历史是一个不断进步,但偶尔出现明显断层的过程。 高级制表史亦不例外,250年来众多制表师用心缔造非凡成就,在此期间亦不时出现破坏,动荡或革命。

高珀富斯推出了一些创新项目,比如30°双体陀飞轮,四体陀飞轮,双重摆轮,以及配备机械计算器的时间等式万年历等等,不胜枚举。 从美学角度来看,高珀富斯不对称凸面表壳和倾斜擒纵系统开辟了制表设计的新思路。 在Tourbillon 24 seconds Architecture 24秒陀飞轮腕表中,高珀富斯开创性地将技术和美学巧妙融为一体。

 

 

 

 

AN UNOBSTRUCTED VIEW
The new Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture is not easy to apprehend. Its components are suspended in space, revealing a harmonious composition of surfaces, shapes and movements. The case showcases the spectacle within firstly through the large opening on the dial side, encompassed by relief-engraved Greubel Forsey values that inspired this creation: Architecture, Harmonie, Innovation, Technique, Bienfacture, Passion, Science, Exclusivité, Créativité.

While the case looks perfectly round when observed from the dial side, it reveals its convex shape from other angles, along with its large synthetic sapphire crystal ring which envelopes the entire periphery of the caseband. Greubel Forsey has been integrating lateral sapphire crystal apertures since as early as 2007, but has never before rendered a movement visible from above, below, and from every angle around the caseband.

This new case construction enables an exhaustive look at even the smallest detail of the movement, but also allows light to penetrate almost unhindered. It is light which sculpts matter and reveals architecture in its intimacy, through a play of shadows and reflections. It bathes the movement to reveal it fully and in all of its complexity and is thus itself a vital contribution to the aesthetic of this exclusive timepiece.

 

 

 

A COMPLETELY NEW CASE CONSTRUCTION
In addition to its aesthetic contribution in show- casing the movement, the case offers a very unique experience on the wrist. Its convex shape profile ensures optimal ergonomics and wrist comfort. Pushing the envelope further still, Greubel Forsey has now conceived a case which is not only convex but also resembles a conical frustrum in its geometry. In the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture, the diameter around the caseback (47.05 mm) is wider than it is around the bezel (45 mm), thus combining the best of two worlds: It contains enough volume to fully showcase the movement architecture within, while at the same time giving the impression of being significantly smaller than it actually is.

Finally, the 50 m water-resistant titanium case features three-dimensional, variable geometry lugs, hand-polished with handfinished straight graining, flowing seamlessly into a rubber strap with embossed text and finished with a titanium folding clasp.

 

 

 

A MOVEMENT UNLIKE ANY OTHER
While the case represents a significant technical feat in its own right, the Greubel Forsey movement remains the star of the show. The polished titanium bridges immediately stand out from the frosted finish of the mainplate, and spectacularly so: Emerging seemingly out of nowhere, they wind their way through the movement to finally impose themselves flush with the sapphire crystal.

At 6 o'clock, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes is moored from a large spherical and openworked bridge, whose base remains hidden by design. In its form, the inclined escapement defies gravity, while in its function, it compensates for it. To solve the problem of critical positions of the oscillator in relation to gravity, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes uses a fast rotation speed in addition to a 25° inclination. These two elements combined contribute to excellent chronometric performance, especially in stable positions.

The barrel bridge at 10 o’clock is sculpted similarly, with polished spherical surfaces, along with polished beveling and countersinks. The barrel cover is engraved, lacquered and circular-grained and contains three coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels, one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension. The caliber's energy source provides 90 hours chronometric power reserve, indicated by a moving red triangle over a conical disk at 3 o’clock. It too is held in place by a beautiful polished titanium bridge.

In the center, we find two large curved, open- worked and polished steel hands, indicating the hours and minutes, mounted on a signature Greubel Forsey tripod bridge. The time indication is completed at 8 o'clock by a small second on a cylinder with polished flanks – mirroring and echoing every other component in its vicinity.

 

 

 

AN EXCLUSIVE FUSION OF TECHNICITY AND AESTHETICS

The 354 parts of the movement are sculpted and arranged asymmetrically yet harmoniously, almost as if they had issued from an organic growth process found in the natural world. Each component is suspended in an unexpected three-dimensional plane, yet it is exactly where it should be aesthetically, technically in relation to every other component. The movement is vi- brant and urban, yet it has space to breathe. The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture is a marvel of contemporary design and a physical manifestation of the Greubel Forsey Art of Invention.

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture will be limited to only 11 pieces in 2022, then to 18 pieces a year between 2023 and 2025 for a total of 65 exclusive timepieces overall.

 

 

 

 

技术规格

Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture 钛金属腕表
2项专利的手动上炼机芯

24 秒陀飞轮• 小时,分钟显示• 小秒显示
24 秒陀飞轮旋转显示• 动力储备显示


机芯
零件数量
机芯:354
陀飞轮框架:86

宝石数量
42颗橄榄形圆顶宝石镶于黄金套筒

动力储备
90 小时

振频
21,600 次/小时

陀飞轮
倾斜 25°, 24 秒一圈
轻合金框架
钛金属表桥
黄金配重螺丝

外壳
表壳
钛金属和合成蓝宝石水晶
带有浮雕文字的立体几何表圈
浮雕 “Architecture 1” 和 “Greubel Forsey”
表壳尺寸
直径:47,05 毫米(表背)和 45,00 毫米(表圈)
高度:16,80 毫米

防水性
防水 5 atm - 50 m - 164 呎
(standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)

表盘
立体几何时标,带有 Super-LumiNova 夜光涂层
动力储存显示经圆纹打磨,镌刻和上漆
金质小秒显示经圆纹打磨,侧面抛光
24 秒陀飞轮旋转指示

表带和表扣
非动物材质,橡胶表带配有浮雕文字,钛金属折迭表扣,镌刻 GF 标志

 

一览无余

全新Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture 24秒陀飞轮腕表复杂而精妙。 它的各个组件仿如悬浮于空中一般,彰显表面润饰,几何造型和动态美感的和谐统一。 表盘一侧的大窗口首先展示内部奇观,周围浮雕着为这款作品带来灵感的高珀富斯价值观铭文:建筑,和谐,创新,技术,精卓工艺,激情,科学,专属,创意。

从表盘侧面看,表壳看起来非常圆润,从其他角度看,表壳呈凸圆形,另有一个合成蓝宝石水晶大圆环包裹着表圈的整个外围。 早在2007年,高珀富斯就开始整合蓝宝石水晶侧窗口,但之前从未透过表壳上方,下方及其周围的任何角度展现机芯美态。

透过这种全新表壳结构,甚至能够详尽地观察机芯的微小细节,而且还能使光线几乎无碍地射入。 通过光影和反射,光线将腕表内的机芯构造全面呈现出来,使之更显得与众不同。 光线照射在机芯上,充分诠释出它的复杂之美,体现它对这款腕表所特有的美学的重要贡献。

全新表壳结构

除了尽展机芯美态之外,表壳还为手腕提供非同凡响的佩戴体验。 凸面轮廓确保出众的人体工学和手腕舒适度。 如今,高珀富斯再进一步,突破极限,构思出一个凸面并类似圆锥体的结构。 在Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture 24秒陀飞轮腕表中,表背周围的直径(47.05毫米)宽于表圈周围的直径(45毫米),从而融合两大优点:它的内部空间足以尽展内部的机芯结构,同时给人一种明显小于实际尺寸的印象。

此外,这款防水深度达50米的钛合金表壳采用三维可变几何形表耳,经手工抛光和直纹处理,搭配钛金属折迭表扣,带压花文字的橡胶表带。

与众不同的机芯

虽然表壳本身就是一项重大的技术成就,但高珀富斯机芯仍是这个秀场的主角。 在磨砂主夹板上,抛光钛金属表桥格外夺目:它们似乎凭空出现,蜿蜒穿过机芯,最后与蓝宝石水晶表镜齐平。

在6点钟位置,24秒陀飞轮固定于大球形镂空表桥上,其底座经设计巧妙隐匿。 在造型和功能方面,倾斜擒纵系统降低并抵消了地心引力的影响。 为了解决地心引力在各个关键位置对振荡器的影响,24秒陀飞轮除了采用25°倾斜度外,还借助了高速旋转。 两大巧妙设计相结合,从而提供超卓的计时性能(特别是在稳定位置时)。

10点钟位置的发条盒桥板采用类似雕刻,以及抛光球形表面,抛光倒角及孔眼。 发条盒盖经过雕刻,喷漆,圆纹处理,包含三个同轴串联快速旋转发条盒,其中一个发条盒配有减速弹簧,以免张力过度。 机芯可提供90小时计时动力储存,以3点钟位置的锥形转盘上可移动的红色三角形指示。 它也以优美的抛光钛金属桥板进行固定。

在表盘中央,两根弧形,镂空,抛光精钢大指针被安装于标志性的高珀富斯三脚表桥上,以指示小时和分钟。 8点钟位置通过带有抛光倒角的圆柱体上的小秒盘指示时间,与周围的其他组件相互呼应。

巧妙融合技术与美学

机芯的354个组件经过雕刻润饰,并以不对称但又和谐的方式排列组合,犹如大自然的神来之笔。 每个组件悬浮在一个意想不到的三维平面上,却在美学和技术上与其他组件相得益彰。 该机芯充满活力和都市气息,而且还有充足的运转空间。 Tourbillon24 Secondes Architecture 24秒陀飞轮腕表的结构堪称当代设计奇迹,也是高珀富斯发明艺术的集中体现。

Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture 24秒陀飞轮腕表将在2022年限量发行11枚,在2023年至2025年期间,每年将限量发行18枚,共计发行65枚。