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Lexicon
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A/h
vibrations of the balance per hour. Two vibrations make the well-known
tick-tock sound of the mechanical watch, known as one oscillation.
Alarm
Watch fitted with a ringing mechanism that is automatically released at
the required time.
Amplitude
(Vibration)
Angle of oscillation for the balance.
Analog or
Analogue
A watch displaying time indications by means of hands.
Antimagnetic watches
Watches not, or hardly, affected by magnetic fields. For the balance
springs of the balance non-magnetic nickel alloys are used.
Antireflection, Antireflective
Superficial glass treatment assuring the dispersion of reflected
light. Better results are obtained if both sides are treated, but in
order to avoid scratches on the upper layer, the treatment of the inner
surface is preferred.
Automat, Automatic
Synonym for a watch
 with
automatic winding. The movement of your wrist makes the rotor
(oscillating weight) turn, thereby winding the mainspring of the watch
movement.
Automation
Figures, placed on the dial or case of watches, provided
with parts of the body or other elements moving at the same time as the
sonnerie (s.) strikes. The moving parts are linked, through an aperture
on the dial or caseback, with the sonnerie hammers (s.) striking a gong.
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Balance
spring
The hairspring and the balance form the oscillating
system.
The balance
spring of
a watch consists of a thin and flat wire made
of Nivarox.
Balance
wheel
Part of the escapement of a mechanical watch. Oscillating device which
divides the time into equal sections.
Barrel
The barrel contains the wound-up mainspring, hooked to it at its outer
end and which stores the energy, assuring a power reserve of 36 to 45
hours to the watch. The mainspring is wound up manually by means of the
crown (handwinding watch) or trough the movement of the oscillating
weight (Rotor) in an automatic watch.
Beveling
Chamfering of edges
of levers, bridges and other elements of a movement by 45, a treatment
typically found in high-grade movements.
Bracelet;
A metal band attached to the case. It is called
integral if there is no apparent discontinuity between case and bracelet
and the profile of attachments is similar to the first link.
Bridge
brass plate fixed on the main plate by two or more pins and screws.
Between the bridge and the plate the wheels and staffs are turning.
Bezel
Top ring for the crystal and/or decorative ring on the upper side of the
watch case.
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Cabochon
Any kind of precious stone, such as sapphire, ruby or emerald, uncut and
only polished, generally of a half-spherical shape, mainly used as an
ornament of the winding crown (s.) or certain elements of the case.
Calendar, ANNUAL
An intermediate complication
between a simple calendar and a perpetual calendar. This feature
displays all the months with 30 or 31 days correctly, but needs a manual
correction at the end of February. Generally, date, day of the week and
month, or only day and month are displayed on the dial.
Calendar, FULL
Displaying date, day of the week and month on the
dial, but needing a manual correction at the end of a month with less
than 31 days. It is often combined with the moonphases.
Calendar,
PERPETUAL
This is the most complex horology
complication related to the calendar feature, as it
indicates the date, day, month and leap year and does not
need manual corrections until the year 2100 when the leap
year will be ignored.
Calibre
Description for a watch movement according to construction,
size and factory origin.
Carat
1 Carat = 1/24 fine gold of a gold alloy. An 18 carat gold
alloy contains 18/24 fine gold = 75% fine gold content.
Carriage or
Tourbillon Carriage
Rotating frame of a tourbillon device, carrying
the balance and escapement(s.). This structural element is essential for
a perfect balance of the whole system and its stability, in spite of its
reduced weight. As today’s tourbillon carriages make a rotation per
minute, errors of rate in the vertical position are eliminated. Because
of the widespread use of transparent dials, carriages became elements of
aesthetic attractiveness.
Case
Container housing and
protecting the movement (s.), usually made up of three parts: middle,
bezel, and back.
Centre Second Hand
s. Sweep second hand.
Champlevé
Hand-made treatment of the dial or case surface. The
pattern is obtained by hollowing a metal sheet with a graver and
subsequently filling the hollows with enamel.
Chronograph
A watch that includes a built-in stopwatch function, i.e. a timer that
can be started and stopped to time an event. There are many variations
of the chronograph.
Chronometer
A high-precision watch.
According to the Swiss law, a manufacture may put the word “chronometer”
on a model only after each individual piece has passed a series of tests
and obtained a running bulletin and a chronometer certificate by an
acknowledged Swiss control authority, such as the COSC.
Circular Graining
Superficial decoration applied to bridges, rotors
and pillar-plates in the shape of numerous slightly superposed small
grains, obtained by using a plain cutter and abrasives. Also called
Pearlage or Pearling.
Cloisonné
A kind of enamel work— mainly used for the
decoration of dials—in which the outlines of the drawing are formed by
thin metal wires. The colored enamel fills the hollows formed in this
way. After oven firing, the surface is smoothed until the gold threads
appear again.
Clous de Paris
Decoration of metal parts
characterized by numerous small pyramids.
Cock
s.
Bridge.
Colimaçonnage
s. Snailing.
Column Wheel
Part of chronograph movements, governing the functions of various levers
and parts of the chronograph operation, in the shape of a small-toothed
steel cylinder. It is controlled by pushers through levers that hold and
release it. It is a very precise and usually preferred type of
chronograph operation.
Compliaction
Additional function
with respect to the manual-winding basic movement for the display of
hours, minutes and seconds. Today, certain features, such as automatic
winding or date, are taken for granted, although they should be defined
as complications. The main complications are moonphase (s.), power
reserve (s.), GMT (s.), and full calendar (s.). Further functions are
performed by the so-called great complications, such as split-second
(s.) chronograph, perpetual calendar (s.), tourbilon (s.) device, and
minute repeater (s.).
Corrector
Pusher (s.) positioned on
the case side that is normally actuated by a special tool for the quick
setting of different indications, such as date, GMT (s.), full or
perpetual calendar (s.).
COSC
Abbreviation of “Contrôle
Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres,” the most important Swiss institution
responsible for the functioning and precision tests of movements of
chronometers (s.). Tests are performed on each individual watch at
different temperatures and in different positions before a functioning
bulletin and a chronometer certificate are issued, for which a maximum
gap of -4/+4 seconds per day is tolerated.
Côtes Circulaires
Decoration of rotors and bridges of movements, whose pattern consists of
a series of concentric ribs.
Côtes de Genève
Decoration
applied mainly to high-quality movements, appearing as a series of
parallel ribs, realized by repeated cuts of a cutter leaving thin
stripes.
Counter
Additional hand on a chronograph (s.), indicating the time
elapsed since the beginning of the measuring. On modern
watches the second counter is placed at the center, while
minute and hour counters have off-center hands in special
zones (s.), also called subdials.
Crown
Button to wind up and set the watch to time. As it is linked
to the movement through the winding stem (s.) passing
through a hole in the case. For waterproofing purposes,
simple gaskets are used in water-resistant watches, while
diving watches adopt screwing systems (screw-down crowns).
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Dial
Face of a watch, on which
time and further functions are displayed by markers (s.), hands (s.),
discs or through windows (s.). Normally it is made of a brass—sometimes
silver or gold.
Daily Rate
Term used to denote the difference of time adjustment after 24 hours.
There can be differences of up to several seconds per day according to
quality and place or quality and wearing conditions.
Date Display
Display of date on the dial of a watch. In mechanical watches discs or
bars are used for this purpose, which are connected to the movement by
means of transmission wheels.
Differences
In accordance with the type of movement used, the daily rate may vary
between -5 to +20 seconds.
Digital
watches whose indications are displayed mostly inside an
aperture or window (s.) on the dial.
Divers Watch
Specially constructed wrist watch for deep sea diving. Divers watches
are fitted with screw-in crowns, and they are guaranteed to withstand
underwater pressures of 20 ATM (200 m).
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Ebauche, Movement
Blank
Incomplete watch movement in principle without mainspring and balance. The
movement blanks are assembled, refined and completed with the missing parts.
Endstone
Undrilled jewel, placed on the balance jewel
with the tip of the balance-staff pivot resting against its flat surface, to
reduce pivot friction. Sometimes used also for pallet staffs and escape
wheels.
Engine-turned
s. Guilloché.
Equation of
Time
Indication of the difference, expressed in minutes, between
conventional mean time and real solar time. This difference varies from -16
to +16 seconds between one day and the other.
Escapement Wheel
The escapement wheel and the lever build the escapement. It is the last
train wheel.
Escapement
Mechanism built in between the gear train and balance wheel. The escapement
transfers the power from the gear train in regular and even time sequences
to the balance, the oscillating system.
ETA
ETA
SA, leading manufacturer in Switzerland for movements. ETA movements are used
for many renowned Swiss watch brands.
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Fine Time Adjustment
Regulating lever to adjust the daily time accurately. The majority of Swiss
watches are fitted with a regulating lever for particularly precise time
adjustment.
Flinqué
Engraving on the dial or case of a watch, covered with an enamel layer.
Fluted
Said of surfaces worked with thin
parallel grooves, mostly on dials or case bezels.
Fly-Back
Feature combined with chronograph
(s.) functions, that allows a new measurement starting from zero (and
interrupting a measuring already under way) by pressing down a single
pusher, i.e. without stopping, zeroing and restarting the whole mechanism.
Originally, this function was developed to meet the needs of air forces.
Fold-over
Clasp
Hinged and jointed element, normally of the
same material as the one used for the case. It allows easy
fastening of the bracelet on the wrist. Often provided with
a snap-in
locking device, sometimes with an additional
clip or push-piece.
Frequency, s. Vibration
Generally defined as the number of cycles per time unit; in
horology it is the number of oscillations of a balance every
two seconds or of its vibrations per second. For practical
purposes, frequency is expressed in vibrations per hour (vph).
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Gasket
The majority of water resistant watches are equipped with gaskets in the
case back, the crystal and the crown.
Gear-Train
The system of wheels and pinions which, from the barrel B, transmits the
driving power to the escape wheel E, Z1 centre-wheel, Z3 third wheel, Z5
fourth wheel. E escape wheel. All these wheels are riveted to their
respective pinions, Z2, Z4, Z6.
Geneva Seal
s. Poinçon de Genève.
Glucydore
Bronze and beryllium alloy used for high-quality balances (s.). This
alloy assures high elasticity and hardness values; it is non-magnetic,
rustproof and has a very reduced dilatation coefficient, which makes the
balance very stable and assures high accuracy of the movement.
GMT
Abbreviation for Greenwich Mean Time. As a feature of watches, it means
that two or more time zones are displayed. In this case, the second time
may be read from a hand making a full rotation in a 24-hour ring
(thereby also indicating whether it is a.m. or p.m. in that zone).
Gold Plating
Electro
deposited layer of gold, the thickness of which is given in microns.
Gong
Harmonic flattened bell in a steel alloy, generally positioned along the
circumference of the movement and struck by hammers (s.) to indicate
time by sounds. Size and thickness determine the resulting note and
tone. In watches provided with minute-repeaters (s.), there are often
two gongs and the hammers strike one note to indicate hours, both notes
together to indicate quarters and the other note for the remaining
minutes. In more complex models, equipped also with en-passant sonnerie
(s.) devices, there may be up to four gongs producing different notes
and playing even simple melodies (such as the chime of London’s Big
Ben).
Guilloché
Decoration of dials, rotors or case parts consisting of patterns made by
hand or engine-turned. By the thin pattern of the resulting
engravings—consisting of crossing or interlaced lines—it is possible to
realize even complex drawings. Dials and rotors decorated in this way
are generally in gold or in solid silver.
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HAMMER
Steel or brass element used in movements provided with a repeater or
alarm sonnerie (s.). It strikes a gong (s.) or bell (s).
HAND
Indicator for the analogue visualization of hours, minutes and seconds
as well as other functions. Normally made of brass (rhodium-plated,
gilded or treated otherwise), but also steel or gold. Hands are
available in different shapes and take part in the aesthetic result of
the whole watch.
Handwinder, Hand winding
A watch
whose mainspring is wound up daily by means of the winding crown.
Heart-Piece
Heart-shaped cam (s.) generally used to realign the hands of chronograph
counters.
Helium Valve
Valve inserted in the case of some professional diving watches to
discharge the helium contained in the air mixture inhaled by divers.
Hertz Heinrich
German physicist (1857-1894). The word Hertz is now used as physical
measurement for the frequencies (numbers of vibrations), indicated as
oscillation per second.
Hexalite
An artificial glass made of a plastic resin.
High Frequency Movement
Watches
which make a minimum of 28'800 vibrations.
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Incabloc
Trade mark of a Swiss shockabsorber (see
Shock-absorber).
Instantaneous Date
Instantaneous date
means that the date changes instantaneously at midnight. |
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Jewel
Precious stone used in movements as a bearing surface. Generally
speaking, the steel pivots (s.) of wheels in movements turn inside
synthetic jewels (mostly rubies) lubricated with a drop of oil. The
jewel’s hardness reduces wear to a minimum even over long periods of
time (50 to 100 years). The quality of watches is determined mainly by
the shape and finishing of jewels rather than by their number (the most
refined jewels have rounded holes and walls to greatly reduce the
contact between pivot and stone).
Jewelled Lever Escapement
Lever
with pallet of synthetic ruby.
Jumping Hour
Feature concerning the digital display of time in a window. The
indication changes almost instantaneously at every hour.
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Knurling Tool
This
tool is used in the production of bezels. |
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Line
Ancient French
measuring unit maintained in horology to indicate the
diameter of a movement (s.). A line (expressed by the symbol
‘’’) equals 2.255mm. Lines are not divided into decimals;
therefore, to indicate measures inferior to the unit,
fractions are used (e.g. movements of 13’’’3/4 or 10’’’1/2).
Lubrication
To reduce friction caused by the running
of wheels and other parts. There are points to be lubricated
with specific low-density oils such as the pivots (s.)
turning inside jewels (s.), the sliding areas between
levers, and the spring inside the barrel (requiring a
special grease), as well as numerous other parts of a
movement.
Lug
Double extension of the case
middle (s.) by which a strap or bracelet is attached.
Normally, straps and bracelets are attached with removable
spring bars.
Luminescent
Said of
materials applied on markers (s.) and/or hands (s.),
emitting the luminous energy previously absorbed as
electromagnetic light rays. Tritium is no longer used and
was replaced by other substances having the same emitting
powers, but with virtually zero radioactivity, such as
Super-LumiNova and Lumibrite.
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Made in Switzerland
Produced and assembled in Switzerland.
Mainspring
Flat coiled spring that powers all mechanical watches.
This and the barrel make up the driving element of a
movement . It stores and
transmits the power force needed for its functioning.
Manual
A mechanical
movement (v.) in which winding is performed by hand. The
motion transmitted from the user’s fingers to the crown is
forwarded to the movement through the winding stem (s.),
from this to the barrel (s.) through a series of gears (s.)
and finally to the mainspring (s.).
Marine Chronometer
Highly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper enclosed in a
box (hence the term box chronometer), used for determining the longitude
on board ship. Marine chronometers with mechanical movements are mounted
on gimbals so that they remain in the horizontal position is necessary
for their precision.
Markers
Elements printed or applied on the dial, sometimes they are
luminescent (s.), used as reference points for the hands to
indicate hours and fifteen- or five-minute intervals.
Mechanical Watches;
Watch that stores the running power by means of a mainspring. The
mainspring is either wound up manually in a handwinding watch or in an
automatic watch by the swinging weight (Rotor)
 through
the movement of the arm.
Micron;
1/1000 mm or 0.00l millimetre used for instance to measure the thickness
of gold plating.
Micrometer Screw
Element positioned on the regulator, allowing to shift it by minimal and
perfectly gauged ranges so as to obtain accurate regulations of the
movement.
Mineral Crystal;
Mineral, mostly flat watch crystals. Mineral crystals are hardened after
polishing and therefore less sensitive to scratches and plexi crystals.
Minute Repeater
s. Repeater.
Module
Self-contained
mechanism, independent of the basic caliber (s.), added to the movement
(s.) to make an additional function available: chronograph (s.), power
reserve (s.), GMT (s.), perpetual or full calendar (s).
Moonphase
A function available in many watches, usually combined
with calendar-related features. The moonphase disc advances one tooth
every 24 hours. Normally, this wheel has 59 teeth and assures an almost
perfect synchronization with the lunation period, i.e. 29.53 days (in
fact, the disc shows the moonphases twice during a single revolution).
However, the difference of 0.03 days, i.e. 44 minutes each month,
implies the need for a manual adjustment every two and a half years to
recover one day lost with respect to the real state of moonphase. In
some rare case, the transmission ratio between the gears controlling the
moonphase are calculated with extreme accuracy so as to require manual
correction only once in 100 years.
Movement
The entire
mechanism of a watch. Movements are divided into two great
families: quartz and mechanical; the latter are available
with manual (s.) or automatic (s.) winding devices.
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Nivarox
Trade name (from the
producer’s name) of a steel alloy, resisting magnetization, used for
modern self-compensating balance springs (s.). The quality level of this
material is indicated by the numeral following the name in decreasing
value from 1 to 5
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Official Certificate
(see
Chronometer)
Oscillation
Complete
oscillation or rotation movement of the balance (s.), formed by two vibrations
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Pallet
Part of the lever escapement, shaped like a ship's anchor (see
Escapement).
Device of the
escapement (s.) transmitting part of the motive force to the
balance (s.), in order to maintain the amplitude of
oscillations unchanged by freeing a tooth of the escape
wheel at one time.
Pillar-Plate or Main
Plate
Supporting element of bridges (s.) and other
parts of a movement (s).
Pinion
Combines
with a wheel and an arbor (s.) to form a gear (s.). A pinion
has less teeth than a wheel and transmits motive force to a
wheel. Pinion teeth (normally 6 to 14) are highly polished
to reduce friction to a minimum.
Pivot
End
of an arbor (s.) turning on a jewel (s.) support. As their
shape and size can influence friction, the pivots of the
balance-staff are particularly thin and, hence, fragile, so
they are protected by a shockproof (s.) system.
Plate
(Bottom Plate)
The plate supports the bridges and the various parts of the movement.
The movement plate and the bridges build the frame of the movement.
Plated
Said of a metal
treated by a galvanizing procedure in order to apply a
slight layer of gold or another precious metal (silver,
chromium, rhodium or palladium) on a brass or steel base.
Plexiglas,
Plexi Crystal
Watch crystal made of acryl crystal. This material can be processed and
polished easily. The advantage for the owner of the watch is the
comparatively high resistance to shocks.
POINÇON DE GENÈVE
Distinction assigned by the Canton
of Geneva to movements produced by watchmaker firms of the
Region and complying with all the standards of high horology
with respect to craftsmanship, small-scale production,
working quality, accurate assembly and setting. The Geneva
Seal is engraved on at least one bridge and shows the
Canton’s symbol, i.e. a two-field shield with an eagle and a
key respectively in each field.
Pointer Calendar
English expression for a calendar watch with a hand that points to the
date as opposed to a calendar watch where the date appears in a window.
Power Reserve
Duration (in hours) of the residual functioning autonomy of
a movement after it has reached the winding peak. The
duration value is displayed by an instantaneous indicator:
analog (hand on a sector) or digital (through a window). The
related mechanism is made up of a series of gears linking
the winding barrel and hand. Recently, specific modules were
introduced which may be combined with the most popular
movements.
Pulsimeter Chronograph
The
pulsimeter scale shows, at a glance, the number of pulse
beats per minute. The observer releases the chronograph hand
when starting to count the beats and stops at the 30th, the
20th or the 15th beat according to the basis of calibration
indicated on the dial.
Pusher,
Push-Piece or
Push-Button
Mechanical element mounted on a case
(s.) for the control of specific functions. Generally,
pushers are used in chronographs (s.), but also with other
functions.
Push Pin
Small metallic spring pin fixed between the horns of the case to hold
the watch strap.
PVD
An abbreviation which stands for Physical Vapour Deposition. The PVD
technology used for watches and bracelets is one of the most up-to-date
and non-polluting coating systems. Its quality can be compared to 10
micron gold plating. The PVD finish is highly scratchproof and long
lasting. The authentic gilt colour tone is obtained by applying a 23
carat gold layer.
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Quartz Watches
Watches with analogue or digital display, whose movement is powered by a quartz.
The quartz analogue watch: The division of the time functions by means of
quartz, whose vibrations are generated by a battery. The analogue time display
is shown by electrically driven hands. In digital watches the display is, in
most cases, by liquid crystal numerals.
Quick Change Corrector (Date)
Mechanism for the direct setting of the date, to avoid turning the hands over 24
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Regulating
With fine regulating the watchmaker adjusts a watch to run as accurately as
possible (see
Fine Time
Adjustment).
Regulating Unit
Made up by
balance (s.) and balance spring (s.), governing the division
of time within the mechanical movement, assuring its regular
running and accuracy. As the balance works like a pendulum,
the balance spring’s function consists of its elastic return
and starting of a new oscillation. This combined action
determines the frequency, i.e. the number of vibrations per
hour, and affects the rotation speed of the different
wheels. In fact the balance, by its oscillations, at every
vibration (through the action of the pallets), frees a tooth
of the escape wheel (s. Escapement). From this, motion is
transmitted to the fourth wheel, which makes a revolution in
one minute, to the third and then the center wheel, the
latter making a full rotation in one hour. However,
everything is determined by the correct time interval of the
oscillations of the balance.
Regulator
Regulating the functioning of a
movement by lengthening and shortening the active section of
the balance spring (s.). It is positioned on the
balance-bridge and encompasses the balance spring with its
two pins near its fixing point on the bridge itself. By
shifting the index, the pins also are moved and, by
consequence, the portion of the balance spring capable of
bringing the balance back is lengthened or shortened by its
elastic force. The shorter it is, the more reactive it tends
to be and the more rapidly it brings the balance back and
makes the movement run faster. The contrary happens when the
active portion of the balance spring is lengthened. Given
today’s high frequencies of functioning, even slight index
shifts entail daily variations of minutes. Recently, even
more refined index-regulation systems were adopted (from
eccentric (s.) to micrometer screws (s.)) to limit error
margins to very few seconds per day.
Repeater
Watch that strikes the hours by means of a mechanism operated
by a push-piece or bolt. There are various types of repeaters. Quarter-repeater:
sounding a low note for the hours and a "ding-dong" for each of the quarters;
Five-minute repeater: striking the hours, quarters and five-minute periods after
the quarter; Minute-repeater: striking the hours, quarters and minutes; Grande sonnerie (grand strike): striking the hours and quarters automatically and
repeating when a push-piece is pressed down; Chiming repeater: in which the
quarters are struck on three or four gongs of different pitch. The mechanism of
the striking work is among the most complex complications.
Retrograde
Said of a hand (s.) that, instead of
making a revolution of 360 before starting a new
measurement, moves on an arc scale (generally of 90 to
180) and at the end of its trip comes back instantaneously.
Normally, retrograde hands are used to indicate date, day or
month in perpetual calendars, but there are also cases of
retrograde hours, minutes or seconds. Unlike the case of the
classical indication over 360, the retrograde system
requires a special mechanism to be inserted into the basic
movement.
Rotating Top Ring
Rotating bezel on the top ring of a watch case, serving in most instances to
record additional data.
Rose Gold
Alloy of gold, copper and silver. The rose gold tone is due to the copper
content.
Rotor
In
automatic-winding mechanical movements the rotor is the part
that, by its complete or partial revolutions and the
movements of human arm, allows winding of the mainspring
(s.).
(see
Swinging
or Oscillating Weight)
Ruby
Synthetically produced precious stone, used in the watch movement as pallet
stones and bearings (jewel holes) to reduce friction and wear.
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Sapphire Crystal
Watch crystal made of artificial sapphire. A sapphire crystal is highly scratch
resistant due to its extreme hardness.
Scale
Graduation on a
measuring instrument, showing the divisions of a whole of values,
especially on a dial, bezel. The scales mostly used in horology are
related to the following measuring devices: tachometer (s.) (indicating
the average speed), telemeter (s.) (indicating the distance of a
simultaneously luminous and acoustic source, e.g. a cannon-shot or a
thunder and related lightning), pulsometer (to calculate the total
number of heartbeats per minute by counting only a certain quantity of
them). For all of these scales, measuring starts at the beginning of the
event concerned and stops at its end; the reading refers directly to the
chronograph second hand, without requiring further calculations.
Screw Back;
Case back with thread so that is can be screwed on to the watch case.
Screw-in Crown;
Special crown which is screwed in for better security and used mainly for
diver's and sports watches.
Second Time-Zone Indicator
s. GMT and World Time.
Self-winding
(see
Automatic).
Setting Mechanism
By pulling out the crown the time and date can be set. The core of this complex
mechanism is
the cannon pinion, fitted with a special kind of coupling-clutch. This enables
the watch to be set independently from the gear-train.
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Shockproof
,Shock-Resistant or
Shock-Absorber
Watches provided with shock-absorber
systems (e.g. Incabloc) help prevent damage from shocks to the balance
pivots. Thanks to a retaining spring system, it assures an elastic play
of both jewels, thus absorbing the movements of the balance-staff pivots
when the watch receives strong shocks. The return to the previous
position is due to the return effect of the spring. If such a system is
lacking, the shock forces exert an impact on the balance-staff pivots,
often causing bending or even breakage.
Skeleton,
Skeletonized
Watches whose bridges and pillar-plates
are cut out in a decorative manner, thus revealing all the parts of the
movement.
Slide
Part of a mechanism moving with
friction on a slide-bar or guide.
Small Second
Second display not from the centre, but by a hand in a subsidiary small dial.
This type of second implies a different construction of the movement.
Snailing
Decoration with a spiral pattern, mainly used on the
barrel wheel or on big-sized full wheels.
Sonnerie (En
Passant)
Function consisting of an acoustic sound, obtained by a
striking work made up of two hammers (s.) striking gongs (s.) at set
hours, quarter- and half-hours. Some devices can emit a chime (with
three or even four hammers and gongs). By a slide (s.) or an additional
pusher (s.) it is possible to exclude the sonnerie device and to select
a so-called grande sonnerie.
Split-Second Chronograph
Chronographs with
split-second mechanisms are particularly useful for timing simultaneous
phenomena which begin at the same time, but end at different times, such
as sporting events in which several competitors are taking part. In
chronographs of this type, an additional hand is superimposed on the
chronograph hand. Pressure on the pusher starts both hands, which remain
superimposed as long as the split-second mechanism is not blocked. This
is achieved when the split-second hand is stopped while the chronograph
hand continues to move. After recording, the same pusher is pressed a
second time, releasing the split-second hand, which instantly joins the
still-moving chronograph hand, synchronizing with it, and is thus ready
for another recording. Pressure on the return pusher brings the hands
back to zero simultaneously, provided the split-second hand is not
blocked. Pressure on the split pusher releases the split-second hand,
which
instantly joins the chronograph hand if the split-second hand
happens to be blocked.
Staff or Stem, s. Arbor.
Stainless Steel
Steel which does not get rusty and is not affected by corrosion. It is extremely
resilient.
Striking Work, s. Sonnerie and Repeater.
Subdial, s.
Zone.
Super Luminova, s. Luminescent.
Sweep
Second Hand
A center second hand, i.e. a second hand mounted on
the center of the main dial.
Swinging Or Oscillating Weight
(Rotor)
The natural movement of the
arm makes the oscillating weight swing round, thus winding up the mainspring of
the automatic watch.
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Tachometer (Tachymeter)
Function measuring the speed at which the
wearer runs over a given distance. The tachometer scale is calibrated to
show the speed of a moving object, such as a vehicle, over a known
distance. The standard length on which the calibration is based is
always shown on the dial, e.g. 1,000, 200 or 100 meters, or in some
cases one mile. As the moving vehicle, for instance, passes the
starting-point of the measured course whose length corresponds to that
used as the basis of calibration, the observer releases the chronograph
hand and stops it as the vehicle passes the finishing point. The figure
indicated by the hand on the tachometer scale represents the speed in
kilometers or miles per hour.
Telemeter
By means of the
telemeter scale, it is possible to measure the distance of a phenomenon
that is both visible and audible. The chronograph hand is released at
the instant the phenomenon is seen; it is stopped when the sound is
heard, and its position on the scale shows, at a glance, the distance in
kilometers or miles separating the phenomenon from the observer.
Calibration is based upon the speed at which sound travels through the
air, viz. approximately 340 meters or 1,115 feet per second. During a
thunderstorm, the time that has elapsed between the flash of lightning
and the sound of the thunder is registered on the chronograph scale.
Tonneau
Particular shape of a watchcase, imitating the profile of
a barrel, i.e. with straight, shorter, horizontal sides and curved,
longer, vertical sides.
Tourbillon
Device invented in
1801 by A. L. Breguet. This function equalizes position errors due to
changing positions of a watch and related effects of gravity. Balance,
balance spring and escapement are housed inside a carriage (s.), also
called a cage, rotating by one revolution per minute, thus compensating
for all the possible errors over 360. Although this device is not
absolutely necessary for accuracy purposes today, it is still
appreciated as a complication of high-quality watches.
Tritium;
Isotop of hydrogen, slightly radio-active, is used to activate the luminous dots
on the dial. The emitted radiation is so low that there is no health risk.
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Vibration
Movement of a pendulum or other
oscillating bodies, limited by two consecutive extreme positions. In an
alternate (pendulum or balance) movement, a vibration is a half of an
oscillation (s.). The number of hourly vibrations corresponds to the
frequency of a watch movement, determined by the mass and diameter of a
balance (s.) and the elastic force of the balance spring. The number of
vibrations per hour (vph) determines the breaking up of time (the
“steps” of a second hand). For instance, 18,000 vph equals a vibration
duration of 1/5 second; in the same way 21,600 vph = 1/6 second; 28,800
vph = 1/8 second; 36,000 vph = 1/10 second. Until the 1950s,
wristwatches worked mostly at a frequency of 18,000 vph; later, higher
frequencies were adopted to produce a lower percentage of irregularities
to the rate. Today, the most common frequency adopted is 28,800 vph,
which assures a good precision standard and less lubrication problems
than extremely high frequencies, such as 36,000 vph.
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Waterproof;
English term for water resistant watches.
Water Resistance;
Watch case, crown, buttons (push-pieces) and crystal are water resistant and
dustproof up to the underwater pressure or depth mentioned by the manufacturer (3
atmospheres, corresponding to a conventional depth of 30 meters; 5
atmospheres, corresponding to a conventional depth of 50 meters).
The water resistance should be checked yearly.
Wheel
Circular element, mostly
toothed, combines with an arbor (s.) and a pinion (s.) to make up a gear
(s.). Wheels are normally made of brass, while arbors and pinions are
made of steel. The wheels between barrel (s.) and escapement (s.) make
up the so-called train (s.).
Winding Stem
Element
transmitting motion from the crown (s.) to the gears governing manual
winding and setting.
Winding System;
Shaft on which the crown is fixed at the outer end. The winding system
 is
the connection to the watch movement.
Window
Aperture in the dial,
that allows reading the underlying indication, mainly the date, but also
indications concerning a second zone’s time or jumping hour.
World Time
Additional feature of watches provided with a GMT (s.)
function, displaying the 24 time zones on the dial or bezel, each zone
referenced by a city name, providing instantaneous reading of the time
of any country.
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